Rotorua was as gorgeous as it was nauseating too: the rotten egg smell had us both retching slightly. The Wai-o-tapu geothermal area was all boiling kerosene pits, crystallised sulphur vents, and fluorescent yellow waters – but even the free public park was unearthly: dozens of areas with murkily burbling mud and steaming pools. Apparently, one of the glooping boiling mud ponds was used for sound effects for Mordor.
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