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Japan

A suffusion of cute: Nara deer

Kawaii – cuteness – is a religion here. The rest of the world frowns on cartoons, sniffs at toys, and sneers at all things doey-eyed and fluffy. But in Japan, the cuteness levels accepted...

Vegan temple stay in Koyasan

Time to change. Total change. A Buddhist temple stay with daily 5.30 prayer service should do it. That’s 5.30 am. With vegan-only food – for us dedicated carnivores. And, of course, no...

Kyoto temples and Osaka pretty boys

Osaka was plastered with giant posters of pretty boys. Androgynous teenagers with pouting lips and expensive choppy hair, all looking like rather attractive lesbians at a glance. At first, we thought...

Beppu Hells

When Japan decides to pay attention to something, it does it with an obsessive attention to detail that is – frankly – terrifying. Sushi is something that a European would reckon they...

Nagasaki

We’d thought Japan would be good. We were wrong: it’s fabulous. China was still very fresh in our memory when we boarded the Japanese ferry in Busan – and realised that suddenly, everything was...