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Sabbatical

Roadtrip to Shangri-La

What a road trip! As if destination: Shangri-La wasn’t enough, our route took us through Tiger Leaping Gorge and through the mountain roads where tour buses don’t venture. The road was narrow and...

Lijiang Dragons

Chinese place names are magic. Everywhere else in the world, place names are prosaic descriptions – black pool, slough – or refer to some dull person: Snowdon, Brighton – with...

Misty mountain life in Yangshuo

China got off to a rocky start. 5am start, with 3h sleep, slow taxi to the border, slow (but happily painless) bordercrossing, and got to the Zhuhai train station on mainland China with an hour to...

Kowloon streets

Hong Kong hotpot

Hotpot sounds so innocent, doesn’t it? The name summons up warming winter foods at home, preferably when it’s freezing and raining outside. Turns out it’s a bit different here. A...

Portuguese Macau

Macau is delightful! We hadn’t expected to particularly like it – colleagues who had visited had winced slightly when mentioned: it’s famous as the Vegas of China, full of giant...

Orangutans in Sumatra

Bukit Lawang was a tiny remote village in the arse end of the jungle getting slowly approached by palm oil plantations till just a few years ago. But local and international effort kicked in to...

Free-diving in paradise: Gili Air

What is it about Gili Air? There are no cars, no scooters, no motor noise other than occasional boats – just the jingling of horse bells from the carts. Yes, horse carts are in actual use, not...

Temples and monkeys: Bali

Some 20 years ago, I’d been through quite the year. I’d split up with my boyfriend of seven years, come out of the closet, started and broken up with first girlfriend, changed house 5 times...